Life Tastes Good

Chef David Bouley

October 6th, 2010 – Dinner at Bouley hosted by 56 Degree Wine. Words cannot describe how ethereal this experience was. I’ll try, but don’t blame me if you get hungry… or jealous.

Presented with the opportunity to attend a wine dinner hosted by Chris and Joe (from 56,) I was completely unprepared for the extravagant evening that lay ahead.  It was a rare occasion, where Chef David Bouley himself would be in the kitchen (and later at our table,) overseeing the execution of his thoughtfully created menu. The details of the courses would be revealed to Chris and Joe just a day before the event, and they would be faced with the challenge of pairing wines to the chef’s creations. No time to order, they chose what we had in stock at the shop. The challenge was met and conquered, and here is how the evening played out…

Our Private Dining Room

Entrance to Restaurant

The venue in and of itself is something out of a fairy tale. Magical is the word that comes to mind.  Bouley hired the best men for the job (some from overseas) to create the look that he was envisioning. Imported French doors (the one leading to the cellar is so heavy that Chef Bouley referred to it as “almost petrified,”) details dating centuries back, and stone that was from the same quarry used to restore the Versailles Palace in France are just a few of the authentic ingredients used to transform this space into a structural paradise. Upholstered frames, over-sized mirrors, and textured walls add to the appeal. It is romance to the nth degree. I had the opportunity to feast in the elaborate main dining room two years ago, but this time, the event was to take place entirely in the downstairs private room, adjacent to the wine cellar. The massive walnut doors and antique hardware was reminiscent of an old French Chateau. Just stunning.

Now, the meal.

Fresh Malibu Sea Urchin Terrine w/ Russian Golden Osetra Caviar and Fresh Kinome Leaf
NV Pascal Paillard Champagne Brut Bouzy Grand Cru
My notes… Such a unique dish! The creaminess of the sea urchin stood our for me, and my first encounter with kinome leaf – so savory, slightly peppery.. perfectly balanced dish. I was looking for ways to re-create this dish at home (challenge!) and then I found THIS! SCORE!!!!

Crab with Black Truffle Dashi and Corn Flan

Butter-Sugar Corn Flan with Live Dungeness Crab and Black Truffle Dashi
2001 Patrick Lesec Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru
My notes… Rich and earthy while preserving a wealth of freshness and brightness (perhaps the corn?) Someone at the table questioned this and decided that the dashi was too overwhelming. I couldn’t disagree more. Amazing balance in this dish! And, it paired magnificently well with the Lesec!

Organic Connecticut Farm Egg; 24 Month Prosciutto di Parma; Steamed Polenta, Artichoke, Coconut, and Early Garlic Broth
2001 Ronchi di Cialla Ciallabianco]
My notes… Always a favorite of mine on any menu… the FARM EGG. The coconut broth brought a whole new dimension to this dish, resulting in a mouthful of tropical richness. The Ciallabianco was a great pair – although I still had a tiny but of Puligny left over, and it was just as stellar of a pairing!

Chatham Day Boat Lobster; Brown and White Honshimeji Mushrooms, Passion Fruit, English Peas, Fresh Lychee, Hyssop
2008 Knoll Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd
My notes… Perhaps the marriage of the night! Rich lobster, earthy mushrooms, tropical passion fruit and lychee, fresh peas, and aromatic hyssop. Almost a chaotic slew of ingredients – but wow. The combination was magic (there’s that word again!) Every bite revealed another dimension, every sip of the Riesling reminded us of how incredible a meal like this can get with the “proper” wine pairings. Kudos and thanks to Chris and Joe and to the staff at Bouley for recognizing all of these flavors and for allowing every single guest in that room the chance at such a food and wine epiphany!

Venison Loin Wrapped with a Rye and Salt Crust; Roasted Chesnut Peels, Chestnut Gnocchi, Baby Roasted Brussel Sprouts, Comte Cloud
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili
My notes… The venison loin was brought out just before slicing, and Chris caught a picture of it. Click here to view the masterpiece (keep in mind that there was very low light in the room when the picture was taken!) Again, such fragrant and savory flavors. And what better wine than the Giacosa Barbaresco to bring out the delightfulness in it all? PS – The coolest thing about this dish is that every item could have stood on its own… the venison; the chestnut gnocchi; the brussel sprouts; and the “comte” cloud – literally a cloud of cheese. YUM.

Chilled Strawberry Soup with Organic Yogurt Sorbet
My notes… For what seemed to be a “palette cleanser” or “pre dessert,” this course left us so satisfied and content. Fresh, bright, delicious!

Dessert

Caramelized Anjou Pear with Valrhona Chocolate, Biscuit Breton, Hot Toffee Sauce, Reglisee Sorbet, Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream
2001 Isole E Olena Vin Santo
My notes… The dessert is a masterpiece. The thinnest slices of caramelized pear wrapped the little package up. Inside, was Valrhona chocolate and biscuit breton (a buttery biscuit that was first made in the northwest part of France.) Hot toffee sauce topped the pears and the sorbet and ice cream flanked on either side. The dessert wine was the perfect balance of nutty, toffee, rich goodness balanced with a good amount of acidity, so it didn’t seem cloying at all.

An unforgettable meal and experience. Still, the words I use don’t seem to do justice to the evening. So, I’ll just relish in my memory.

Cheers!

Greetings! Let me start by continuing my online journey of my gastronomic week, or shall I say, MONTH!?

Eggs Benedict

Next stop was WD-50. Stop THREE of my gastronomic week 2010. The first time I dined at the acclaimed Wylie restaurant, I was rather unimpressed. Perhaps I was fearful to detach myself from my traditional culinary roots? I don’t know… But I was determined to 1) have a completely different experience and 2) meet Wylie. Plus, a good friend was insisting I give this place just one more try.

Cuttlefish with cashews

Drum roll… a different experience it was! The courses were flavorful, and full of texture and complexity.  We, as a table, shared two orders of the eggs benedict, which consisted of deep fried hollandaise sauce, the thinnest pieces of Canadian bacon you’ll ever see,  and creatively prepared egg yolks. Nothing healthy about it, but it was delicious! I went with the cuttlefish appetizer with cashew and rootbeer. Heavenly – and the cashews added such amazing texture.

Aerated Foie Gras

Others at the table that day raved about the aerated foie gras. Divine. Light as cotton candy, with the decadence of the rich delicacy. For my main course, I decided on the scallop dish – accompanied by chicken fried lentils (crispy and yummy,) radish, and lychee. Innovative and creative flavors blended into one unique and delicious dish. We had the Margaine Brut Rose with our appetizers and then moved to a magnum of an incredible Riesling that I can’t for the life of me remember – can any of my dining companions refresh my memory? A perfect pairing for my scallops! And yes, Wylie was there. I was a tad star struck and got all googly as he whisked by me at one point to get what seemed to be a glass of water from the bar. Mission accomplished.

And then there was STOP NUMBER FOUR. Literally, at this point, I felt as though I needed to do a cleanse diet in between all of my extravagant dinners. This time, we celebrated a friend’s birthday and introduced them to our favorite restaurant in the state… yep. elements in Princeton… Again! The chefs paired some fabulous courses to the wines that we chose for the evening… 2006 Albert Grivault Meursault, 2002 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia, and 1999 Terrebrune Bandol Rouge. Manish and I both agreed that this was our all time favorite dining experience at elements (trumping my last post) which proves to me that the staff here are always aiming to grow and surprise you more with each visit! A peak into what we feasted upon… no pictures of the food but trust me when I say that each and every plate was an artistic masterpiece, showcasing the colors and flavors of the season and of course the amazing talentsof Chef Scott Anderson and Chef Joe Sparratta.

~The amuse bouche trio: Beet Salad; fresh Tomato soup with fennel salad; Broccoli soup
(The guys enjoyed the Maple Loch Cocktail with this and the gals enjoyed the 20th century cocktail – Mattias at the bar is a genius!)
~Super sweet cherry tomato salad with fresh feta cheese and basil
~Local peach salad; red quinoa; fleur vert; black garlic; poppy seed sponge cake – as uniquely amazing and satisfying as the last time!
~Tuna belly and hamachi sashimi with pear and jicama – So fresh and clean, with the perfect balance of fruit and acidity.
~Geoduck with herb risotto, clam juice, saffron, and fried artichokes – Last time I had geoduck was at dim sum. I liked elements’ version much better – perfectly cooked, so tender!
~Seared scallops with romesco sauce
~Turbot with mustarda greens – I’m a sucker for a good hearty green
~Hazelnut tortellini with shaved truffles, parmesan crisp, pecans, and garlic chips – Truly Decadent!
~Seared foie gras with pear and maple syrup – As though the word “decadent” should have an even richer meaning
~Veal sweetbreads and caramelized sunchokes
~Smoked duck with fingerling potatoes and haricot verts – Amazing pairing with the 99 Bandol!
~Pre-dessert was the Bacon and Eggs – something I think I would order EVERY time I go!

Pre Dessert

That marked the end to my gastronomic MONTH. Stay tuned to my October musings – I look forward to sharing! Cheers!!

The Thursday that followed my birthday was a true treat. I was given the opportunity to attend a wine dinner that 56 Degree Wine, in conjunction with importer extraordinaire Olivier Daubresse, hosted.  It was the most educational, inspirational, and phenomenal wine dinner that I have ever experienced.

The geniuses at elements in Princeton, Chefs Scott Anderson and Joe Sparatta, created a unique and ridiculously mouth-watering menu to pair with each flight of wine. Yes, I said flights. Olivier had the foresight to set aside some older vintages of all of the wines that were showcased so that one day, we could all enjoy a lovely event like this, comparing young vintages to ones that had more bottle age! The wines that were paired were all white Burgundy, 4 different producers from 4 different regions.

This dinner ranks in my top 5 dining experiences of all time, and the credit goes to the incredible staff at elements, and the hosts for organizing. I also believe that I had the best seat in the house – sitting in between Joe (wine director at 56) and Olivier (importer) and across from Chris (owner of 56.) The conversations were educational and inspiring. A thorough review of this event was done by Chris Cree, Master of Wine, owner of 56 Degree Wine, my boss and mentor, oh the list goes on. His blog post says it all, so I will just link to his here…

An incredible evening, the perfect birthday gift!

There are many things that I love about the warm weather and the start of summer. Vacation for the kids, the beach, the pool, dining al fresco… You get the point. But here are some of my favorite libations to sip on the hammock, pool-side, at the beach, or at one of my favorite picnic spots!

2008 Quinta da Aveleda Grinalda Reserva DOC, Vinho Verde – From the Vinho Verde region of Portugal, this producer makes a vibrant, fresh, and crispy wine from the grape varietals Trajadura, Loureiro, and Alvarinho. This is the perfect summer sipper… I wouldn’t mind some fresh seafood to pair with, but it’s great on its own!

2008 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet “Les Gras Moutons” Sur-Lie – “Crisp, stony, briny, and spiny” are the words used to describe this wine which hails from the Muscadet region in the Loire. 100% Melon de Bourgogne (the grape varietal found in Muscadet wines,) this wine has amazing length and versatility. GREAT with oysters from Metropolitan Seafood, or, if you wish, on its own.

2008 Lydie and Thierry Chancelle Saumur Blanc – Chenin Blanc is one of my all time favorite grape varietals. The resulting wines from good producers are so versatile, ranging from dry varieties to just off dry, to almost “dessert wine” sweet. All the while, displaying notes of stony minerality, fennel,  citrus, acacia blossom, and such balanced acidity and length. I love this wine with Seared Scallops and Summer Fennel Slaw with Citrus Tarragon Vinaigrette.

ROSE’! My favorite Rose’ to date (sadly, I am almost done with my stash… sigh) is the 2009 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rose, Provence. This is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, and Mourvedre. Mineral, dry, long finishing,with berry goodness. The perfect accompaniment to my steamed mussels with Chorizo Broth. A close second is the 2009 Domaine des Haut Cances Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Rose or the 2009 Janasse Rose Vin de Pays Principaute d’Orange.

2007 Alain Corcia Bourgogne Rouge Reserve Grande Classe – The perfect light red to accompany a summer meal! Juicy enough for sipping on the deck too… and a great pairing with grilled salmon!

The Kachumber Cooler – Made famous at Danny Meyer’s restaurant, Tabla, in NYC, the Kachumber Cooler is a refreshing gin-based cocktail with the additions of cucumber, cilantro, green pepper, and lime. The “Bardolia” version adds a little ginger infused simple syrup (instead of regular) kicking it up just a notch.  We served these addictive cocktails with an Indian inspired bbq menu!

Summer has officially BEGUN. Enjoy!!

Spring had sprung, and CACAO was the theme ingredient in this Season’s Battle. Possessing earthy and sometimes bitter qualities, cacao laid the foundation for unique, and creative dishes and was utilized in every form: From cacao nibs, to unsweetened cocoa, to dark chocolate, and even a chocolate infused liqueur. Each course combined creative uses of the theme ingredient with seasonal spring market touches. Folks, we definitely all stepped it up a notch! Here are the details…

Battle Cacao!

Cacao Amuse Bouche!

The Hors d’oeuvre/Cocktail Course: Sejal and Rick brought three adorable and delicious amuse bouche to the table! A spiced pumpkin soup (in a shot glass) was topped with a cocoa cream and sprinkled with a little bacon. The warm spices in the soup matched the earthy components of the cream – the key was to get all of the flavors in one “shot.” Mission accomplished Next to that was a beautiful micro green salad dressed with a chocolate vinaigrette. The dressing was so light and complimented the zingy and peppery little greens. The star of the plate was the chocolate Napolean. Tiny shards of dark chocolate (not unsweetened, but definitely not overly sweet) were layered with an chive cream cheese. Such a unique flavor combo – but yum… they really complemented each other… I’ll take another! All of this was paired with the lovely J Winery Brut (sparkling wine.)

Cacao Mushrooms

The First Course: I have a bittersweet memory of this course (literally,) as it was the one that Manish and I brought to the table. Hands down, I will tell you that we have NEVER spent so much time on the planning and execution of a single course. Our theory behind the main ingredient in this course (wild mushrooms) was justified by our desire to pair the earthy flavors with the cacao, and make them vibrant. Our base was a medley of wild mushrooms. We smoked petite whites and shitakes with cacao nibs and wood chips. We combined these smoked mushrooms with the morels and chanterelles that we marinated in a cacao “coffee” (that we made by grinding cacao nibs and filtering the coffee through a french press.) We folded some fresh thyme, sauteed ramps (and the fresh green tops as well,) and a little taleggio into the mushrooms. Alongside, were two diamond shaped pieces of “mushroom consomme and cacao coffee” gelee. A dot of chocolate barbecue sauce added a bit more smoke, and we topped the entire plate with a cocoa-Parmiggianno crisp. I enjoyed everything about the dish, but was unsure that the combination of flavors actually complemented each other. In the end, we would do it again, but maybe without brewing the cacao coffee!

Cacao Entree

The Main Course: Jigna and Piyush contributed to our mouthwatering journey by offering the evening’s unforgettable entree. Short ribs were marinated for 48 hours in red wine, slow cooked, and then finished with a chocolate rosemary reduction. So tender and so flavorful… SO good! The herbaceous quality in the sauce really paired well with the rich chocolate addition and the protein. This was accompanied by a lovely pasta with zucchini and cacao nibs cooked “risotto style.” The luscious texture of this amazing pasta made for an exquisite  foundation for the beef. The course was finished with a bright splash of spinach, and topped with a perfectly fried pheasant egg. The bold and subtle components of the ingredients made for a perfectly balanced dish! We enjoyed one of my favorite Malbecs with this – 2008 La Posta del Vinatero Malbec Cocina.

Bfast, Lunch, and Dinner Dessert!

The Dessert: Priti and Chirag presented us with a ”day” of desserts. No joke! They served what they called “Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.” Who wouldn’t be happy with chocolate as a main ingredient in each meal of their day!  For “breakfast,” we enjoyed crepes stuffed with a rich chocolate filling and blueberries. So decadent, so rich, so delicious! For “lunch,” they served us a “sandwich and chips.” Perfectly crisp chocolate cookies sandwiched homemade vanilla ice cream, and for texture, savory and sweet potato chips were drizzled with caramel and chocolate. YUM. And for “dinner” (or dessert,) we were offered a libation that tasted like black forest cake…. topped off with chocolate mint. These individual dishes melded into one fantastic dessert – awarding them the title of Battle Cacao Champs!

Black Forect Cake with Chocolate Mint

Thanks to Jigna and Piyush for choosing such a versatile theme ingredient, and to all of my “Battle” family for executing yet another unforgettable meal!

It’s been a few weeks, so I’ll condense all of my recent “tastes” into one post. We enjoyed some healthy fare, some colorful flair, some spicy bites, and some “out of this world” delights. Ok, ok, no more hokey Nita… Been reading a few too many of my daughter’s sing-songy books!

I recently fell in love with the flavors of a very healthy, simple, and colorful salad. Nothing more than some fresh baby spinach leaves and some slivers of thinly sliced red onion made for the base of this plate. I used Cara Cara oranges interchangeably with Blood Oranges. I preferred the color and flavor of the latter. After segmenting the orange into little “supremes,” I juiced a few tablespoons of the remaining pulp into a bowl, and combined it with some whole grain mustard, white wine vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. The resulting vinaigrette was the perfect balance of sweet, tangy, and savory. Atop each plated salad, I placed a warmed round of chevre which was rolled in chopped nuts before going into the oven. I used pecans once, walnuts another time, but the preferred choice was the smoked almond. It not only added the obvious crunchy texture to the dish, but a depth of flavor that complimented the other ingredients. The wine that stood out for me when paired with this dish was the 2008 Maison Andre Quancard Viognier/Muscat Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes. A steal at $12.50/bottle at 56 Degree Wine!

Color played a similar role in another inspired dish. I was challenged by the thought of creating “potato scales” (similar to a dish I experienced at Elements in Princeton) for my incredibly fresh sea bass that the guys over at Metropolitan Seafood had suggested I try. So, I went to the market and purchased some colorful baby fingerlings. I sliced these as thinly as one could without a mandoline (I know, I can’t believe that I don’t own one yet!) and thought that most of them were uniform in shape and size. I then created little “galettes” of overlapping potato slices on a silpat, and then brushed them with butter. The starchy slices were already sticking together. Here is where many recipes start to crumble. Some say to overlap the “scales” right onto the fish. Others say to cook the potato crisp first and then place on top of the cooked fish. I par-cooked the slices on the silpat, and then transferred them onto the filets (still malleable.) Right before serving, I seared the fish “potato-scale side down” first. What a mess. My scales were all over the place. I definitely did NOT master this technique, but the resulting dish was still tasty and kind of pretty. This was served atop a sunchoke puree and on the side was sauteed rainbow chard (incredibly fresh and straight from the market) and purple fingerling “boats” filled with sunchoke puree and boar bacon. Please comment if you have ever created those gorgeous potato scales, or can suggest a fool-proof technique for me. Perhaps my slices need to be thinner? Oh yes, and we enjoyed the lovely 2006 Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet La Boudriotte to go with this.

This next dish is an incredibly flavorful take on a Vietnamese sandwich (Banh Mi.) Spicy pork meatballs, sriracha spiced mayo, and a sweet and tangy Asian slaw. Yum! Thanks Piyush & Jigna for introducing us to it, and Chirag & Priti for allowing us to re-visit it!

Another flavorful dish loaded with spice but low in heat, and perfect for this time of year… Chili Braised Short Ribs. I love braised meats. I especially love braised short ribs. My favorite preparation is braised in a dry red wine, a little stock, and just a touch of honey and a splash of port for pronounced flavor. Well, that WAS my favorite preparation. Until a couple weeks ago, when I experimented with some bolder flavors. Ancho chilies and a blend of exotic spices were the base for the braising liquid that I used for these short ribs. I used a little stock, and no wine. The resulting dish was bursting with flavor and the sauce was rich and velvety. I’ll be sharing this recipe with you in a few weeks (I am working on a blog-site for just recipes and comments – coming soon!)

So I think I covered healthy, colorful, and spicy. Now for the “out of this world….” Manish and I finally made it over to The Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, thanks to JB and his reservation that he made a couple months ago. I must admit that before dining there, I perused numerous blog-sites that posted pictures and experiences of culinary adventures with Chef Cesar Ramirez and his 12 person seating inside his kitchen of Brooklyn Fare. I thought that I “knew” what to expect. And although I was very excited about being there in person, I didn’t think that the experience would veer too far off of what I was already so impressed by through my web searches. Boy was I WRONG.

The first words that I read when I sat down at the impeccably spotless stainless steel extension of Chef Ramirez’s kitchen were the ones written on the huge window of the open kitchen. “Our kitchen is bigger than yours.” Those words set the stage for the casual ambiance that was the background of our experience throughout the evening. That and the menu – simple words stating the main ingredient of each course… “Scallop; Monkfish; Rouget; Porcelet; etc etc” Casual, yes. But we dined like royalty. Course after course, Chef Ramirez out-did himself, creating masterpieces of flavor, texture, and color while using the freshest ingredients – all organic, much that is available at their market/grocery store just next door.

We hid the camera and put away our cell phones, as this was the request (also written in the menu.) A couple dining companions and I did take notes, just to remember everything that was being served. It was a 6 course tasting menu, with some amuse bouche (or canapes, as Chef Ramirez called them) to start. During the meal, Chef explained that he created these dishes and flavor combinations through research and not through copying or emulating any other chef or recipe that he has encountered. His passion for his work is what drives him. He is an artist, a genius. I felt privileged and honored to be sitting there in front of him, reaping (and consuming) the benefits of his passion.

Forgive the descriptions sans photo… for as I mentioned before, we did not want to offend the Chef. But here is our account of the evening, written with the utmost respect and admiration for Chef Cesar Ramirez. Thank you Chris and Len for filling in the blanks…

Wines (Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention, it is BYO with no corkage… I know!)
Rodez Cuvee Crayeres Brut Champane
Demeric Catherine de Medici Brut Champagne
2001 Bzikot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres
1999 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
2008 Sinskey Pinot Blanc
1999 Levet Chavaroche Cote Rotie
1986 Raymond Lafond Sauterne

Canapes
Warm beet soup with Hudson Valley yogurt (perfect starter – the yogurt was so creamy)
Fresh Sardine tucked into a potato chip (very creative)
Crab with shredded phyllo and dilled yogurt
Bluefin toro with mustard and crispy leeks
Kumomoto oyster with grapefruit, creme fraiche, and oyster juice gelee (one of my favorites)
New Zealand langoustine with a unique herb in a saffron sauce (would have definitely ordered this in a restaurant – always say yes to langoustines!)
Hamachi, celery root, trout roe, lemon puree
Japanese baby shrimp, jalapeno, caviar (not spicy at all!)
King crab, vanilla oil, pineapple, caviar (YUM – another favorite)
Duck “fries” with smoked paprika (Robin and Sapana, if you are reading this, THIS is the most exotic thing I’ve ever had – lol – I can explain later)
Fried “smoked” foie gras (perfect little spheres of some sort of cornmeal? breading around a molten center of foie gras)
Bacalao (sp?) Mousse with shaved black truffle (Chef said that the amount of black truffle that was shaved on top of this canape was worth more than the dinner itself – wow. of course, another favorite)

Courses
Seared Scallop with a squash puree, pork belly, pea shoots, black trumpet mushroom, white truffle foam (I would be happy with every ingredient in this dish served on its own… but the combo – absolutely fabulous!)
Monkfish and Foie Gras wrapped in wilted cabbage, parsely root puree and chanterelle cream (so decadent!)
Rouget, salsify, razor clams, snails, Iranian saffron sauce
Porcelet with mustard sauce and kumquats (so tender and so delicious!)
Banana Parfait with milk chocolate foam, chocolate cake, coconut, rum
Creme Caramel with passion fruit puree

Words and pictures are beautiful, but the experience is ethereal.

So long, 2009… Happy New Year! I know it’s been a while since my last post. The holidays demanded more hours from me – both at the shop and in the kitchen. Amongst these hectic work days, I’ve had the opportunity to experience some incredible meals and of course, some amazing paired wines. I’ll try to recap some of my favorites here…

Nantucket Bay Scallops (Sashimi style) with just a drizzle of lime and some snipped chives. This paired magnificently well with the 2007 Gilbert Picq Chablis. The incredibly fresh, sweet scallops offset the zippy acidity and mineral tones of the Chablis. We also had the delicious Pacific Peale Passage oysters along side – creamy and rich with still the briny flavor that you expect with a raw oyster. The brown sauce in the picture is just a little ponzu/soy dipping sauce – but we didn’t need it! (Thanks to Nick at Metropolitan Seafood for your suggestions!)

The “Soft Boiled then Breaded then Fried” (Blue Hill style) Egg atop truffled barley risotto with the 2000 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja. The earthy tones of the barley and the wine matched perfectly. Here are the before and after pictures of the dish… Once you cut into the egg, the soft yolk blends into the base and creates a velvety sauce-like texture to the risotto.

Another egg favorite… Soft egg Raviolis with Truffle Cream. These little pockets of flavor exploded with savory goodness. We first mixed together fresh ricotta with some Parmiggianno Reggianno, some fresh lemon peel, and a light sprinking of sea salt. Placed that in the middle of a fresh pasta round, and then topped the dollop of ricotta mixture with an egg yolk. Top that with another pasta round (carefully,) seal the edges, and voila. Soft egg ravioli! After a very brief simmer in a shallow pan of water, the raviolis were dressed with the truffle cream. This paired with the 2007 Vajra Langhe Rosso was truly harmonious.

At the 56 Degree Wine Dinner at Culinariane  in Montclair with wines from Francois Thienpoint, I fell in love with Ariane’s version of her team’s winning dish from Top Chef. The Indian spiced Lamb Chops with Carrot Puree and wilted Spinach. Earth and spice tones set the stage for the slightly sweet notes of the carrots to shine as well. The wines were incredible, highlighting all of the flavors of the dish. The 2006 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol and the 2000 Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol were my favorite wines of the night. This menu inspired me to create something similar – Indian spiced Lamb Chops with Carrot-Ginger Puree and Spinach simmered in Yogurt and spices.

As the weather gets cooler outside, the idea of comfort food warms my heart. “Braised” dishes to be even more specific. Some of my favorite creations from the cold months of this season thus far…

Braised Rabbit Ragu over Creamy Polenta. We had this with the Fantabulous (really – there IS no word in the English dictionary that can describe this wine) 2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Asili. (Yum! Thank you, J.B. for bringing the vino!)

I also made Rajat Parr’s Indian Spiced Lamb Shank recipe and paired it with the earthy 2000 Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne Saint Emilion. Perfectly balanced flavors in both the lamb and the wine – you could really taste the cinnamon and the spices but nothing was overwhelming. I am always tweaking recipes – I never seem to be happy unless I “Nita-fy” it. But this one, was perfect as written, in my opinion. (Click on the link above to get to the recipe.)

Braised Meatballs in Red Wine gravy was another cold weather necessity – and we drank the 2007 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia. After a half hour of decanting, this wine was fabulous. Velvety, berry fruits with a touch of smoke. Delicious!

My favorite braised dish of this season so far though was the Beef braised in Barolo that our friends made on Christmas Eve. It was such a special meal. So tender and so flavorful, this dish could only be paired with a wine as worthy. We had the 2005 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate with its spicy and smoky notes to pair alongside. Delicious! Thanks again, Sej and Rick!

Speaking of Christmas – my girls gave me my very first Macaron cookbook. As many of you know, I’ve blamed bad recipes, my oven, and lack of time to my inability to create those little Parisian masterpieces. I’ve attempted over a dozen times, and a few of those attempts were successes (perfect macaron “feet” and all!) Now I have no excuse! I will most definitely blog my efforts later this month, as Maya has already asked me to bake her a “Macaron cake” for her 11th birthday. It’s a challenge… so I’ll try it!

Back to wining and dining… We experienced our first ethereal wine pairing menu at Elements in Princeton. If you are ever in the central Jersey area, do yourself a favor and check this place out. The chefs here are incredibly talented, and the service stellar. My favorite courses were the Nantucket  Bay Scallop Ceviche (surprise surprise,) the Octopus with smoked Paprika, and believe it or not, the simple Griggstown chicken course – with wild boar sausage. There were many more intricate flavors involved, but that is what I remember most about those plates.

I can’t forget the adorable and expertly inventive dessert – Bacon and Eggs. Sous Chef Joe Sparatta removes the top of an organic egg, removing its contents and filling it with brioche french toast. Then he tops that layer with a creamy egg and bacon custard, and a creamy maple foan tops off the egg. On the side of the egg is a strip of bacon and a slice of french toast. It’s even better than it looks in the picture!

Before I complete my first post of this new year, I’ll tell you a little about one of my new favorite things to drink. If you know me, you know that in addition to fine food and wine, I loooooove me a good cup of coffee. Well, I recently discovered some truly phenomenal coffees from the company Fresh Coffee Now. My favorites are the Breakfast Blend (which I like to drink all on its own – sans milk or sugar) and the French Roast  (which I like with my accompaniments.) The Mexican Roast and Colombian seem to be the favorites amongst some family and friends that have been the lucky taste testers in my house. Check out the link above for more information (and 56 Degree Wine sells the coffee at the shop as well!)

Til next time – Cheers! And Happy 2010!

A version of this meal was served to my dear friends, Roshni and Anand… just a week ago. Unfortunately, no camera with batteries that day… so here is a similar harvest menu that I have perfected with exquisite pairings to match (with the help of Joe – thank you!)

Tuna Carpaccio with Sesame Soy Vinaigrette ~ Wine 2007 Summerer Gruner Veltliner

Carrot and Fennel Soup with Seared Scallop ~ Wine 2007 Francois Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir

Breaded, Soft boiled Egg Atop Truffled Lentils ~ Wine 2004 Damilano Barbera d’Alba

Honey and Vinegar Braised Short Ribs with Sunchoke and Celeriac Puree (And Brussel Sprout “Chips”) ~ Wine 2007 Bodegas Mas Alta Els Pics Priorat

For Dessert, I tried to create the incredible chocolate tart that I spoke of in my last post (the one from Serenade.) It was a valiant effort, but I still couldn’t get the crust as delicate as they did. Since then, however, I did successfully replicate a dessert that I tasted at The Bernards Inn a few years ago. They were mini baking apples, hollowed out and filled with a vanilla custard, baked, and then “bruleed.” A perfect ending for this harvest meal…

Until next time, eat well… and Cheers!

This was the theme at a dinner party hosted by yours truly this past weekend. We had our very charming friends – Len, Aileen, Tom, and Flora – over for what we intended to be a fun grilling evening. But due to the “weather witch,” (aka RAIN RAIN RAIN) we dined indoors. “A Savory Summer Supper” is what we focused our meal planning around.

We started off the evening with the incredible 2005 Gilbert Picq Chablis. A magnum at that! It showcased the perfect balance of fruit, minerality, acidity, and “stony-ness” that you look for in a Chablis. If you are not familiar with the terroir (or the land and geographical surroundings) of where the Chablis region’s grapes are grown, let me enlighten you! The soils in that region are very special. The basin of limestone marl that runs all the way down through the Champagne region, into the Loire, Chablis, and other parts of Burgundy is known as the Kimmerdgian Trail. All of the soil from these regions contain that limestone clay which is heavy with nutrients of the sea shells and fossils from many, many years ago. The grapes pick up those slate-like tones and the resulting wine is perfectly balanced with a stony minerality and vibrant fruit. Lovely!

With the Picq Chablis, we enjoyed an array of hors d’oeuvres. Asparagus and thin bread sticks wrapped in “truffled” prosciutto di parma; Summer garden bruschetta; Assorted Olives; and something that I never served but intended to… Summer Fruit Gazpacho. More on that later!

We took our places at the table and started our meal with quite a bang. The 2008 Domaine Tselepos White Mantinia paired magnificently with Len’s Melon Salad. Perfect spheres of watermelon and cantaloupe accompanied with blueberries, basil, Greek yogurt, and sesame oil. Topped off with a camembert tuile. It was texturally SO appealing – and extremely flavorful. A perfect starter course to our Summer Supper – thank you Len!

The Moschofilero (The lovely asromatic, crisp, clean wine that we speak of above) carried itself through the next course. Heirloom tomatoes were the focus here. A fresh tomato tart – with a parmesan and black pepper crust.A great way to use up your garden tomatoes – here is the recipe… It was a true representation of what late summer represents. So clean, pure, and fresh!

We moved onto the 2006 Peter Michael Le Moulin Rouge Pinot Noir. Exquisite – definitely young but contains enough structure and finesse to pair with the next course. I must say that I was a tad intimidated to show this wine. But Manish and I enjoyed it when we first sampled it in CA last year. It was showing 100 times better than our last tasting – and it was perfect with the Ravioli Oeuf with Truffles. With the yolks still on the “softer side,” these raviolis, stuffed with a savory ricotta filling and an egg yolk, were so decadent. The filling had a dash of lemon zest which really brought out the nuances of all of the other components. The truffled butter sauce revealed an earthy note to the entire course. It was so savory, and now one of my favorite stuffed pasta dishes of all time.

Our guests brought outstanding wines to pair with the next course. Rack of lamb with Fig Gastrique over a sunchoke puree with baby zucchini. The 1988 Chateau Beychevelle Saint Julien was showing very well. After letting it breathe for a an hour or two, this wine was showing hints of cedar, earth, dark cherry, and tobacco. I wrote down “caramel” but by that point, I had consumed enough glasses to assume that I mis”wrote.” So unless that seems normal to you, just disregard! On the opposite spectrum was the 2001 Dalla Valle Cabernet. This had a more pronounced nose of licorice, dark fruit/berry, and coffee. The fruit was there but in an elegant style. Both wines paired well with the meal – the Bordeaux reflecting the earthy and game-y qualities of the dish while the Napa Cab supported the flavors of the gastrique.

Flora’s dessert was phenomenal. A chocolate tart with a delicate shortbread/almond crust. Topped off with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and home made chocolate sauce. Decadent. While everyone was announcing how they could only possibly have a bite, I went on to practically lick my plate clean (figure of speech people!) The 1992 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port and the 2004 Zinskey Late accompanied this course. The perfect ending to a very satisfying meal!

More than the meal itself, I was thrilled to be able to share the table with these food and wine loving friends of ours. Thank you for the lovely evening, and here’s to the next one! Cheers!

My very good friend Dawn and I used to work together every Sunday and Monday at 56 Degree Wine. We still get  to see each other every now and then, but I wanted to write a little something about a memory that’s very near and dear to both of us… Meursault Mondays. It started out one summer Monday in 2008 when a very good customer came to the shop to chat with Chris about some wines that he wanted to purchase. Chris chose several different Village and Premier Cru Meursaults to show him. The customer purchased his wine, and ended up with 3 cases plus a bottle. He then decided to open one of the bottles right there, to share a taste with Chris. Dawn and I arrived moments later, and we were greeted with a glass each. Meursault for breakfast – any day!!!!!  Upon the customer’s departure, he left the open bottle of Meursault behind. We ran out to give it to him, and he waved his hand to us saying “You girls enjoy!”  After that day, every Monday was referred to as “Meursault Monday.” Even if we were sampling Bordeaux. Even if we were sampling Brunello, Even if all we had to drink was coffee. It was always Meursault Monday for me and my Dawn-y. So I just thought I’d post some of my favorite wines here – all enjoyed in the company of my friend Dawn. (Along with some of the unreal pairings that I’ve been lucky enough to experience!)

2000 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Rioja Reserva – (Here’s what 56 Degree Wine has as the description) Like the great producers in Burgundy, Robert Ampeau and Camille Giroud, Lopez de Heredia holds their wines back and only releases them when they are deemed “ready to drink”. The 2000 Bosconia is pure Rioja, conjuring thoughts of a great Pomerol. Supple but still primary, there is a bevy of dried cherry, leather, licorice and spice. Long finishing and in no danger of fading any time soon, enjoy this classic wine anytime over the next ten years.

I have savored the Rioja above on its own, but it shined when paired next to Paella Valenciana!

2005 Richard Leroy Anjou Sec Les Noels de Montbenault – (Here’s what 56 Degree Wine wrote about it) This is such a great wine that we couldn’t pass it up. Richard Leroy makes handcrafted wines in extremely small lots. We love the non-oxidative style of 100% Chenin Blanc. Very fine and very flavorful, the use of older oak is apparent showing richness without wood domination. Fruit forward, zippy acids, tropical tones, mango carmelized apples and a long textured resolve. Just enough sweetness to easily handle spicy dishes. Wonderful!

I love this wine with seared scallops over a microgreen salad with fennel and citrus tarragon dressing. This is equally lovely with Thai take out!

2006 La Peira En Damaisela Obriers de la Peira Languedoc -  (Here is 56’s description) A deeply fruited and unique blend of 65% Cinsault and 35% Carignan, this wine represents some of the best juice I’ve ever tasted from the Languedoc.  Sweet mixed berries, hints of cloves and cassis with a freshness and verve that make this wine so easy to love.  The fine balance and lingering floral note that caresses the palate after the wine dissipates is really striking.  Utilize this Cellar Defender™ anytime a juicy red is needed between now and 2012.

This was fabulous with braised short ribs or braised lamb shanks over truffled polenta.

Last but not least, every time I open a bottle of Meursault, I will think of Mondays with Dawn. Here is my all time favorite producer and one of my all time favorite White Burgundies! Perfectly paired with lobster – either elegantly or casually prepared. My favorite is the classic lobster roll. Made elegant by pairing with this!

2006 Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault Les Perrieres 1er Cru – (As per 56 Degree Wine) The Perrieres ramps up the beauty until it is almost unbearable. Owning 1.5 hectares in what is recognized as the best 1er cru site in Meursault, the 2006 version is full of amazing fragrance of spiced pears and fresh baked bread. Superb cut and balance form the basis for the tangerine, orange peel, crystalline citrus and stupendous length. This wine has excellent aging potential and is best enjoyed now through 2018.

LOOOOOOOVE IT!!!! Cheers, Dawn! xoxo