Life Tastes Good

Inspired to host an early autumn meal for some co-worker friends, I put the following menu together for a group of 9 wine loving foodies…

Starters: Caramelized onion, prosciutto, and fig flatbreads, butternut squash shooters, assorted cheeses.

1st: Cauliflower Soup with Seared Scallop, Lemon oil, Caviar

2nd: Duck Confit Ravioli, Veal Demi, Gremolata

3rd: Roasted Squab with fresh Porcini

Dessert: Thanks to Flora, a dense and delicious chocolate cake!

This is what happens when you combine above with the cast and crew of 56 Degree Wine (and friends of 56!) Here were the wines…

NV Billecart Brut Reserve
2008 Domaine Huet Clos du Bourg Sec
2004 Fevre Chablis GC Vaudesir
2006 Bzikot PM Folatieres
2002 Roty Marsannay
2004 Arlaud Clos de la Roche GC
2007 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d Abruzzo
1990 Ch Montrose
1990 JJ Prum Auslese

THANK YOU for the incredible wines!!!

Manish treated me to the BEST birthday dinner that I have experienced in my 39 years. He didn’t need to ask where I wanted to go, he just made the reservations and made it happen on a quiet, Sunday evening. We brought our bottle of 1997 Salon blanc de blancs to elements in Princeton, and relied on Justin for the rest of our pairings. It felt like Chef Mike and his team catered the meal to please us specifically, as all of the ingredients that they used in the evening’s chef’s tasting were among our favorites.

Enjoying the Hot Mama (Manish's Maple Loch in front)

I started off with a drink called the “Hot Mama” and Manish enjoyed his Maple Loch. The hot mama was one of Mattias’ concoctions that he created for Mother’s Day. He took fresh ripe strawberries when they were in season, and put them through a steam evaporator, extracting as much flavor as he could. He took this “strawberry consomme” and reserved it to use throughout the summer. He added the juice of thai chili, some sugar, some rum, some simple syrup and some lime juice to the strawberry essence and then topped it off with a little sparkling wine. Delicious. Can you imagine if this much work went into my cocktail, what dinner was going to be like!? (Photos below can be clicked on to see larger images. They are condensed in this post for spacial reasons.)

Our amuses included a melon soup with fried jalapeno; a tuna tartare with cucumber and shiso, and a fabulous caesar salad custard that was brought out to us in a hollowed out egg shell. The custard was on the bottom of the shell (we had to scoop it out) and an incredibly aromatic and flavorful herb (salad) broth was delicately poured on top.

The composed salad showcased heirloom tomatoes, scallops, mangalitsa pork, and assorted melons and was accompanied by a basil vinaigrette, olive oil powder, and elderflower. So refreshing and balanced.

The next three courses highlighted products of the sea, always a showstopper here at elements… Kindai tuna with shaved radishes, green tomato puree, locally foraged mushrooms, turmeric cake, and honey. Exotic and rich flavors blended to perfection. Swordfish was accompanied by a carrot puree, a pistachio puree, some spelt, and roasted bell peppers. A pan seared sea bass was bathed in a coconut curry with boudin blanc puree and apples – divine!! We were offered a “snack” of a japanese omelet with slightly seared tuna on top. The omelet was more of a thin crepe style and rolled up… very cool!

The next three courses were the the heartier focus of the evening. The foie gras course was presented to us with pieces of brined foie, seared foie, foie sponge cake, black olive powder, and shiso. What an incredible marriage of flavors – I never thought brine and foie would work so well together! Next was a perfectly cooked portion of mangalitsa pork, shiso, and charred bell peppers. Our last savory course was the wagyu shabu shabu with locally foraged mushrooms. Delicious – sort of an individual “hot pot” cook your own meat sort of thing. We also were served a “snack” during these savory offerings. A small piece of cod with sauteed local mushrooms and creme fraiche.

“The Snacks”

Snack - Japanese Omelet with Tuna

Snack - Cod with Local Mushrooms and Creme Fraiche

The sweet endings to the meal were a tasting menu all on its own! First we were presented with a palate cleanser style course… Wild plum soup, chili sorbet, melons, and cream. The seasonal produce at its height of freshness was shining through – absolutely stunning.

Next was the epoisse custard with sweet onion and nectarine ice cream. Justin had just paired this with Dogfish Head Punkin Ale a few days earlier for a beer dinner. The flavors were divine and the perfect blend of savory and sweet. If I were to choose a favorite dessert, this would be it!

However, the most attractive plate on the menu was this next one… Chocolate mousse encased in a chocolate shell, vanilla ice cream, berry sorbet, and a heartfelt message.

Thank you, Manish… and thanks to elements for a most memorable birthday meal.

Rainbow Carrots

Every year on the Saturday before Labor Day, Manish and I take the girls and meet up with Jigna, Piyush, and our nephews in Hoboken or NYC. We then proceed on our annual pilgrimage to the green market at Union Square, then Eataly (for the past two years at least,) followed by a picnic at a family friendly park. The kids enjoy choosing their own foods from the market (and cheeses and breads from Eataly.) And we enjoy exploring and learning about the unique and colorful crops that some of these farmers bring to the table. This year, Manish and I stocked up on many of the farmers market finds and tested them out in our kitchen… and here are some of the culinary results!

Pea Shoots - we used them for everything from salads to stir fries!

Heirloom cherry tomatoes were chosen very carefully. We tasted as we shopped, and these were the sweetest! We used some basil and fresh mozzarella to create  a very simple heirloom salad. September on a plate

Squash Blossoms…. I tried to re-create a dish that I experienced earlier this summer. Squash blossoms stuffed with fresh ricotta, lightly breaded, pan fried, and drizzled with an anchovy butter sauce…

One of the farms literally had someone sauteeing shisito peppers – fresh – with garlic – and we sampled. Need I say more? We brought some home, and we devoured. Beware though… one out of every 10 is SPICY hot! Delicious, nonetheless!

We didn’t bring these home though…. the hottest pepper in the world. The Bhut Jolokia. From India – translated to “Ghost Pepper.” We had to take pictures though – gorgeous huh?

I don’t know if it was the fresh picked jersey tomatoes, the incredibly aromatic home-grown herbs, or the cook’s loyalty to the recipe that made this meal a bit more multi-dimensional than usual…. but this was the best “Kheema” I’ve had in a long time, and the perfect pairing to go alongside. Kheema is something that my kids call “Indian Sloppy Joes” or “Indian style Chili.” It’s usually some sort of finely chopped or ground meat cooked with a bunch of aromatic spices and vegetables, served usually with naan. I had to blog about my meal, because last week, Manish made the most INCREDIBLE Kheema I’ve ever tasted.

Yes, that’s right… I said Manish. He actually taught me how to cook years ago, but claims that he “forgot” ever since I’ve honed my skills. Well, he was the one that was cooking this time. And, instead of what I call the “Indian mom technique” of estimating the ingredients and never jotting them down so as to remember how to make it the exact same way over and over again (the way my moms cook and the way that I often cook,) he followed a recipe to the TEE. The resulting dish had depth, such flavor, and such vibrancy. I can credit the seasonal produce to a certain degree, but let’s face it… Manish deserves a lot of the credit! His finesse and loyalty to adhere to the recipe was much appreciated My lesson learned: some things are better left un-touched (ie don’t mess with a good recipe!) Here it is!

Kheema Matar (Chopped Meat and Peas) from the late Ismail Merchant’s Passionate Meals

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, quartered and sliced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped fine
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 teaspoons garam masala
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1 cinnamon stick
2 cardamom pods, slightly crushed
1 1/2 lbs meat (I have used ground chicken or ground turkey OR I have chopped the meat very fine – you can alternatively use beef or lamb but the cooking times will increase slightly so as to cook the meat through thoroughly)
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
3 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
1 cup green peas (preferably fresh but if frozen, thawed)
handful of fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

Heat the oil in a saute’ pan and cook the onion until golden brown. Add the garlic, ginger, garam masala, salt, cayenne, turmeric, cinnamon stick, and cardamom pods. Cook all the spices with the onions for about 5 minutes over a low flame. Add the meat, stirring occasionally until it starts to brown. Add the yogurt and cook for another 10 minutes.  Now add the tomatoes and peas. Cover the saute’ pan  and simmer for another 7-15 minutes. That is a large span, but the lower end is for chicken, higher end for lamb/beef. Serve garnished with coriander and with naan.

This is where the wine is made

I had the 2010 Les Grands Caves Saint Roch Vouvray with this meal. Such a perfect pairing! Vibrant stone fruits and amazing minerality keep this wine perfectly balanced. A touch of ripeness paired perfectly with the heat of the Kheema. As you may have noticed, I am a self proclaimed Chenin Blanc fanatic…. so this is a keeper for me – and such a steal at $16.50 a bottle when it’s available at 56 Degree Wine!

It’s July. It’s hot. There’s nothing I enjoy more this time of year than entertaining on our deck (or being a guest at an outdoor soiree,) sipping something clean and crisp, and grilling (and eating) some sort of funky creation that was inspired by a local and fresh ingredient.

This month’s perfect pairing was inspired by our latest food battle. I found myself re-creating this particular dish a few times after the cook off. I have tried several different wines with this, so I will list all three as “perfect pairings.” None of them are pink nor are they crisp…. but they are juicy and perfect with the dish. Enjoy!

Grilled Flatbreads with Raspberry Guajillo Sauce, Smoked Duck, and Ricotta Salata

For the Sauce
2 cups boiling water
3 oz dried guajillo chilies – stemmed and seeded
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 cups fresh raspberries

3 Naan flatbreads (click here for recipe or you can purchase ready made)
olive oil
1 smoked duck breast, sliced (click here for recipe or you can purchase ready made at gourmet specialty stores or D’Artagnan)
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/3 cup cilantro leaves
3 to 4 oz shaved ricotta salata

For the sauce: Place dried chilies in boiling water. Let sit for 30 minutes, until chilies are softened. Reserving the soaking water, remove the softened chilies and place them in a blender with the garlic, and blend with a few tablespoons of the soaking water so as to form a paste. Place two teaspoons of olive oil in a medium saucepan, and bring to a medium high heat. Add the chili paste, and saute until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the raspberries and stir to combine. Add all of the soaking liquid and bring to a boil. Simmer the mixture on low for about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the berry sauce mixture to a blender, and blend until combined. Strain the mixture into a clean saucepan, pressing on and then discarding the solids. Simmer the mixture until slightly thickened, and is just about 1 cup. Season with salt and set aside.

Prep your grill to moderately high heat (charcoal or gas.) Brush your Naans with olive oil, and then top with about 1/4 cup of sauce on each bread. Top with the thin slices of smoked duck breast, then the thinly sliced onion, then the cilantro leaves, and then the shavings of ricotta salata. Grill until the cheese is slightly browned, and the flatbreads are completely heated through, about 5 minutes. Cut into squares and serve, passing more of the sauce if desired.

The three wines that I have tried with this and in my opinion, were very successful due to the consistent berry theme throughout are:

2006 Coume del mas Coullieure Schiste – Berries, smoke, and undertones of spice and leather make this wine a perfect match to the flatbread

2009 Domaine Georges Vernay Cotes du Rhone Sainte Agathe – Again, the smoke and the berries played the main role of this pairing, with some lovey black pepper at the end

NV Domaine Parigot Bourgogne Mousseaux Rouge Brut – A sparkling but structured Pinot Noir that can stand up to all sorts of game and many meats

Great accompaniment for any Indian meal, or for my flatbread recipe!

Ingredients

2 cups all purpose flour
3/4 tsp baking soda
3/4 tsp baking powder
Salt to taste
1/2 cup lukewarm milk
1/2 cup whole milk yogurt
1/2 tsp sugar
Butter as required

Sift the flour, soda and baking powder together to ensure even mixing. Transfer to a mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Pour the milk, sugar, salt and yogurt in it and mix after a minute softly to make a dough. Set aside for 1-3 hours. Make fist sized balls of the dough and dust it with the flour. Roll gently in the shape of a naan and mist with water on one side of it. Stick this side to a well seasoned griddle or fry pan and cook covered for 1-2 minutes. Bubbles will start coming up on the naan. Flip the naan, and when brown spots start appearing on it and is cooked, remove from the pan and apply butter as desired to it.

Makes approximately 4 to 5 naan flatbreads

Here are the steps we took to smoke a perfect magret duck breast….

What you’ll need:
1. 1 magret duck breast half
2. charcoal grill
3. hardwood charcoal
4. wood chips (we used mesquite)

What you need to do:
1. Score the duck breast skin in a criss cross pattern; season with salt and pepper
2. Soak wood chips (we used mesquite) in water for at least 30 minutes
3. Light the charcoal, and make sure it’s “white hot” (we did this in a charcoal chimney)
4. Place coals on one side of the grill, leaving the other side “empty.”
5. Take enough soaked wood chips to cover the coals and place on top of them.
6. Place duck breast, skin side down, on the hot side of the grill (coal side) for 3 minutes
7. Flip the breast, and place on the indirect heat side of the grill, and continue to smoke for 20 minutes, covered.

Result:
Smoked duck breast…. slice and enjoy!

Rose’ season has sprung, and I am happy to report that I have tasted a healthy dose of “pink” so far this year. They are created in varying shades. And although color doesn’t always give away what the flavor intensity will be, I tend to prefer the ones that are a true “blush” or “barely pink.” Crisp, mineral, and long finishing rose’s are the ones on my radar. I tend to love ones from Provence  and other southern French regions – usually boasting a wealth of flavor from the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault grape varietals.

Most rose’s that I have come across have utilized the traditional method of “limited skin contact” during production. In other words, the red grapes are crushed, juices are extracted, and the skins are left in contact with the juice for a limited amount of time. The structure of the wine is more like a white wine than a red, due to the lack of tannin structure that you would get from longer skin contact (ie when making red wines.) There are other ways to make rose… In Champagne, for example, they vinify red and white wines separately (usually Pinot Noir or Pinot Meuniere for reds, and Chardonnay for whites) and then they blend the wines to make rose’. Another method is “Saignee,” where the winemaker bleeds off the juice after limited skin contact with the skins. The pink “must” is removed and vinified separately than the concentrated red juice that is left over. Essentially, rose is considered to be a byproduct of red wine fermentation in this method.

There are three rose’s that I have come across so far this year that have “WOWed” me. One is a favorite of mine that year to year has remained consistently high quality. One is a very unique result of brilliant wine-making, and one is perhaps my new all around favorite – in price and quality, but unfortunately not in quantity, as I have yet to acquire any for myself! See the descriptions below and enjoy the recipe with any of these, or your favorite pink!

2010 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rose – A gorgeous blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Mourvedre…  Melon, berries, stone fruits, and lots of minerals. This wine is so complex! Super long finishing, and perfectly balanced acidity. I know that I say this every year about the current vintage, but the 2010 just might be my favorite!

2010 La Crotta di Vegneron Pinot Noir Bianco (Rose) Vallee d’Aosta – This is 100% Pinot Noir vinified off the skins for 5 months. The high altitude of the vineyard yields the unique fruit for this fabulous terroir driven wine. This producer farms organically, and they use the same grapes to make their fabulous red version of the Pinot. Don’t let the color throw you – this “barely pink” wine is full of texture and flavor. Rainier cherries, red berries, and serious minerality provide the backdrop for this complex and long finishing rose. This one is still available at 56 Degree Wine!

2010 Mas de Cadenet Rosé Sainte Victoire – This is by far the most value driven, and complex rose of the year! Gorgeous white flowers, red berries, melons, and sweet red fruit give way to sea shells and minerality. The color is a perfect blush… Another wine that lingers on the palate and screams “drink me now!” I was fortunate to enjoy this on my deck last week on Memorial Day, and I will have to wait until July for our next shipment. The magnums come in stunning bottles and may be the centerpiece at our next outdoor soiree

Mussels with Sausage and Herbs

2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 lb smoked sausage, diced (I’ve used chorizo in the past but you can use whatever you prefer)
3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thinly
2 lbs mussels, cleaned and debearded
1 large tomato, seeded and diced
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
3/4 cup white wine
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon butter
chopped fresh parsley

In a large saute pan, warm the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic and sausage. Saute for 3 to 5 minutes, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add next 4 ingredients and stir well. Add the wine and the water, cover the pan, and cook over medium heat for about 7 minutes, shaking the pan once. Most of the mussels should have opened by now. Uncover and simmer until the liquid is reduced by about half, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the butter and mix into the sauce. Transfer the entire contents of the pan to a serving bowl, sprinkle with parsley, add crushed black pepper and salt (if needed,) and serve with crusty garlic bread. (Discard any unopened mussels.) Serves 4.

There is no better way to celebrate the summer than with its bounty! My next post will be featuring a rose’ wine and seafood pairing… so I wanted to supply you with a spectacular vegetarian option for the wine pairing… Ratatouille! Enjoy!

Ratatouille

1 large onion, peeled and sliced
3 large garlic cloves, peeled, and minced
1/4 cup olive oil, or more if needed
1 eggplant (approx 1 lb) cut into 1 inch chunks
1 small yellow squash, cut in half lengthwise, then into half moons
1 small zucchini, cut in half lengthwise, then into half moons
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 1/2 cups canned diced tomatoes (I like San Marzano – I get the whole tomatoes and chop them myself)
1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup shredded basil leaves
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs (made from processing firm white bread slices into crumbs)

In a large saute pan, cook the onion and the garlic in 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat, stirring until onion is translucent. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pan, and increase heat to medium high. Add the eggplant, and cook until it is softened, about 8 minutes. (You might need extra oil at this step.) Stir in the next three ingredients and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, and cook for 5 minutes, or until all the vegetables are tender. Stir in the next 6 ingredients, and add cracked pepper to taste. Mix for about a minute over the heat. At this point, you can refrigerate the ratatouille and use the next day.

If made ahead of time, warm the ratatouille over the stove. Add the shredded basil and set aside (tasting for seasoning and adjusting accordingly.) In a small skillet, saute the 1 minced garlic clove in the tablespoon of olive oil over moderate heat, about a minute. Add the fresh breadcrumbs and saute until crumbs have crisped up, about 5 minutes.

Place servings of ratatouille in individual bowls or plates, top with the garlic breadcrumbs, and enjoy with your favorite rose’! Serves 4.

The Farmers Market in Union Square may still have these little beauties for a couple more weeks, but as far as I can see, Ramp Season is at its tail end. Ramps are wild spring onions, and sometimes are called wild leeks. They have small white bulbs, hairy roots, and resemble scallions to a certain degree. The stems shoot out into long green leaves, and these leaves possess the essence of garlic and onion at its freshest. The bulb and stem are stronger in flavor, and are best with a little saute. But the leaves can be chopped and sprinkled over salads, or used as an herb component in any savory dish.

The ramps in the photo above were the result of a “bottom of the barrel” sweep at Whole Foods by yours truly. I went in one day looking for them, and was about to leave, disappointed, sans ramps. I came across a bin of some loose lettuces, and next to it was an almost empty bin of dirty, scraggly rooted things. I was able to decipher that underneath the crust of dirt was the exact ingredient that I was searching for – the stragglers of the bunches that the fortunate shoppers before me had acquired. I took everything that was left in the bin (probably a little more than a bunch) and asked the produce guy if they had anymore. He simply responded with one word “Saturday.” Well, it was Thursday, and I needed my ramp pesto for dinner on Friday. The dirty, crusty stash was my only hope.

I washed the ramps THOROUGHLY and let the dry in paper towels. Soaked the ends in water, and they regenerated themselves to the vibrant green stems they were meant to be. I used a little bit in my spring vegetable soup that evening, a little in the wild rice dish that I made, and most of it in the ramp pesto (recipe below.) My daughter Maya loves to chop the tops of the ramps and fold them into her scrambled eggs. They are so versatile, so fresh, and so SPRING. Grab them while you can, at your local farmers market. Or perhaps forage them yourself like my brother in law Piyush suggested I do at the Great Swamp.

Ramp Pesto

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch ramps – root ends discarded, bottoms and stem chopped and placed in a bowl, and green leaves chopped and placed in a  separate bowl
2/3 cup parmiggiano reggiano cheese
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

Saute the ramp bulbs and stems in 1 tablespoon of olive oil until soft. Place in a food processor. Add the green ramp tops, the cheese, the nuts, and the herbs, and process until combined. With the machine running, add the rest of the olive oil in a stream and process until pureed. Transfer the pesto to a bowl and season with salt and pepper. This can be made a day in advance. Bring to room temperature before serving, This pesto is wonderful on top of seared or grilled fish or combined with pasta.