Fruits of Summer

Sour Cherries fresh from The Cherrful Cherry at the Greenmarket in Union Square NYC

Berries and Cherries and Stone Fruit…. Oh My! Yes, one of the many rewards to braving the summer heat is sinking your teeth into one of these delectable fruit gems…. bare and simple; baked into a treat; or incorporated into a delicious sauce of both savory and sweet dimensions. Two of my favorites…. the sour cherry and the blueberry.

Blueberries from Hillview Farm in Meyersville, NJ. Just up the road from me!
Sour Cherry Turnover

Sour cherry season is short lived. Very short. Mid June through early July, and many of the farm markets sell out of their stash (at least the ones that I frequent!) To my friends out there that laugh at me for trapsing into the city on a random early weekday morning to secure my lot of sour cherries… take one bite of this tart or turnover and see why I am so passionate about it! (Oh and forgive the lame shot of the sour cherry tart as that was me taking the picture at 10pm on Sunday night on my cell phone. Manish wanted make sure I mentioned that! 🙂

Blueberry Pancakes with Blueberry Ginger Preserves (here melted into a sauce)

I went blueberry picking with some friends and my daughters over at the Hillview Farm here in Meyersville. It was the perfect morning, weather wise, and most of the blueberries were ripe, juice, and ready to be plucked. We left with 7 lbs of blueberries, all deliciously plump and sweet. Three days of blueberry pancakes, muffins, and jam, and we still wanted more!

Sour Cherry and Almond Tart

Ingredients
3/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
3 tablespoons ice water
1 lb sour cherries, pitted
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2/3 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 cup raw almonds
1 tablespoon sugar

Combine first 3 ingredients together in a medium bowl. Mix in butter pieces with fingertips until incorporated (it’s ok if you see clumps of butter.) Stir in ice water with a fork until just combined (dough will be shaggy.) Empty contents of bowl (in other words, the shaggy dough) into a large piece of plastic wrap. Form the dough into a disc and wrap tightly. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Flour a piece of parchment paper and place dough disc on top. Place another piece of floured parchemnet on top (flour part touching the dough.) Roll dough out into a 12 to 13 inch diameter circle. Transfer dough carefully to a 10 inch tart pan. I found this pate brisee very delicate, so if it breaks, no worries – just “seal” any holes with the scraps of dough. Form dough into tart pan and up the sides. “Roll off” any excess dough with the rolling pin. Refrigerate for one hour.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine the sour cherries, sugar, and almond extract in a bowl. Grind the almonds and 1 tablespoon sugar in a food processor until fine.

Sprinkle almond mixture into the tart shell, and pour the cherry mixture on top. Bake in a 400 degree oven for 45 minutes to an hour. Serve warm.

Sour Cherry Almond Tart

What’s in Store for 2010 – Food, Wine, and Coffee!

So long, 2009… Happy New Year! I know it’s been a while since my last post. The holidays demanded more hours from me – both at the shop and in the kitchen. Amongst these hectic work days, I’ve had the opportunity to experience some incredible meals and of course, some amazing paired wines. I’ll try to recap some of my favorites here…

SANY1619Nantucket Bay Scallops (Sashimi style) with just a drizzle of lime and some snipped chives. This paired magnificently well with the 2007 Gilbert Picq Chablis. The incredibly fresh, sweet scallops offset the zippy acidity and mineral tones of the Chablis. We also had the delicious Pacific Peale Passage oysters along side – creamy and rich with still the briny flavor that you expect with a raw oyster. The brown sauce in the picture is just a little ponzu/soy dipping sauce – but we didn’t need it! (Thanks to Nick at Metropolitan Seafood for your suggestions!)

SANY1590The “Soft Boiled then Breaded then Fried” (Blue Hill style) Egg atop truffled barley risotto with the 2000 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja. The earthy tones of the barley and the wine matched SANY1634perfectly. Here are the before and after pictures of the dish… Once you cut into the egg, the soft yolk blends into the base and creates a velvety sauce-like texture to the risotto.

 

3060_120307_Another egg favorite… Soft egg Raviolis with Truffle Cream. These little pockets of flavor exploded with savory goodness. We first mixed together fresh ricotta with some Parmiggianno Reggianno, some fresh lemon peel, and a light sprinking of sea salt. Placed that in the middle of a fresh pasta round, and then topped the dollop of ricotta mixture with an egg yolk. Top that with another pasta round (carefully,) seal the edges, and voila. Soft egg ravioli! After a very brief simmer in a shallow pan of water, the raviolis were dressed with the truffle cream. This paired with the 2007 Vajra Langhe Rosso was truly harmonious.

At the 56 Degree Wine Dinner at Culinariane  in Montclair with wines from Francois Thienpoint, I fell in love with Ariane’s version of her team’s winning dish from Top Chef. The Indian spiced Lamb Chops with Carrot Puree and wilted Spinach. Earth and spice tones set the stage for the slightly sweet notes of the carrots to shine as well. The wines were incredible, highlighting all of the flavors of the dish. The 2006 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol and the 2000 Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol were my favorite wines of the night. SANY1593This menu inspired me to create something similar – Indian spiced Lamb Chops with Carrot-Ginger Puree and Spinach simmered in Yogurt and spices.

As the weather gets cooler outside, the idea of comfort food warms my heart. “Braised” dishes to be even more specific. Some of my favorite creations from the cold months of this season thus far…

Braised Rabbit Ragu over Creamy Polenta. We had this with the Fantabulous (really – there IS no word in the English dictionary that can describe this wine) 2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Asili. (Yum! Thank you, J.B. for bringing the vino!)

I also made Rajat Parr’s Indian Spiced Lamb Shank recipe and paired it with the earthy 2000 Chateau Grand Corbin-Despagne Saint Emilion. Perfectly balanced flavors in both the lamb and the wine – you could really taste the cinnamon and the spices but nothing was overwhelming. I am always tweaking recipes – I never seem to be happy unless I “Nita-fy” it. But this one, was perfect as written, in my opinion. (Click on the link above to get to the recipe.)

Braised Meatballs in Red Wine gravy was another cold weather necessity – and we drank the 2007 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia. After a half hour of decanting, this wine was fabulous. Velvety, berry fruits with a touch of smoke. Delicious!

My favorite braised dish of this season so far though was the Beef braised in Barolo that our friends made on Christmas Eve. It was such a special meal. So tender and so flavorful, this dish could only be paired with a wine as worthy. We had the 2005 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate with its spicy and smoky notes to pair alongside. Delicious! Thanks again, Sej and Rick!

41OajmeA-XL__SL500_AA240_Speaking of Christmas – my girls gave me my very first Macaron cookbook. As many of you know, I’ve blamed bad recipes, my oven, and lack of time to my inability to create those little Parisian masterpieces. I’ve attempted over a dozen times, and a few of those attempts were successes (perfect macaron “feet” and all!) Now I have no excuse! I will most definitely blog my efforts later this month, as Maya has already asked me to bake her a “Macaron cake” for her 11th birthday. It’s a challenge… so I’ll try it!

Back to wining and dining… We experienced our first ethereal wine pairing menu at Elements in Princeton. If you are ever in the central Jersey area, do yourself a favor and check this place out. The chefs here are incredibly talented, and the service stellar. My favorite courses were the Nantucket  Bay Scallop Ceviche (surprise surprise,) the Octopus with smoked Paprika, and believe it or not, the simple Griggstown chicken course – with wild boar sausage. There were many more intricate flavors involved, but that is what I remember most about those plates.

thumb40I can’t forget the adorable and expertly inventive dessert – Bacon and Eggs. Sous Chef Joe Sparatta removes the top of an organic egg, removing its contents and filling it with brioche french toast. Then he tops that layer with a creamy egg and bacon custard, and a creamy maple foan tops off the egg. On the side of the egg is a strip of bacon and a slice of french toast. It’s even better than it looks in the picture!

Before I complete my first post of this new year, I’ll tell you a little about one of my new favorite things to drink. If you know me, you know that in addition to fine food and wine, I loooooove me a good cup of coffee. Well, I recently discovered some truly phenomenal coffees from the company Fresh Coffee Now. My favorites are the Breakfast Blend (which I like to drink all on its own – sans milk or sugar) and the French Roast  (which I like with my accompaniments.) The Mexican Roast and Colombian seem to be the favorites amongst some family and friends that have been the lucky taste testers in my house. Check out the link above for more information (and 56 Degree Wine sells the coffee at the shop as well!)

Til next time – Cheers! And Happy 2010!

A Savory Summer Supper

This was the theme at a dinner party hosted by yours truly this past weekend. We had our very charming friends – Len, Aileen, Tom, and Flora – over for what we intended to be a fun grilling evening. But due to the “weather witch,” (aka RAIN RAIN RAIN) we dined indoors. “A Savory Summer Supper” is what we focused our meal planning around.

Picq ChablisWe started off the evening with the incredible 2005 Gilbert Picq Chablis. A magnum at that! It showcased the perfect balance of fruit, minerality, acidity, and “stony-ness” that you look for in a Chablis. If you are not familiar with the terroir (or the land and geographical surroundings) of where the Chablis region’s grapes are grown, let me enlighten you! The soils in that region are very special. The basin of limestone marl that runs all the way down through the Champagne region, into the Loire, Chablis, and other parts of BStartersurgundy is known as the Kimmerdgian Trail. All of the soil from these regions contain that limestone clay which is heavy with nutrients of the sea shells and fossils from many, many years ago. The grapes pick up those slate-like tones and the resulting wine is perfectly balanced with a stony minerality and vibrant fruit. Lovely!

Melon SaladWith the Picq Chablis, we enjoyed an array of hors d’oeuvres. Asparagus and thin bread sticks wrapped in “truffled” prosciutto di parma; Summer garden bruschetta; Assorted Olives; and something that I never served but intended to… Summer Fruit Gazpacho. More on that later!

We took our places at the table and started our meal with quite a bang. The 2008 Domaine Tselepos White Mantinia paired magnificently with Len’s Melon Salad. Perfect spheres of watermelon and cantaloupe accompanied with blueberries, basil, Greek yogurt, and sesame oil. Topped off with a camembert tuile. It was texturally SO appealing – and extremely flavorful. A perfect starter course to our Summer Supper – thank you Len!Heirloom Tart

The Moschofilero (The lovely asromatic, crisp, clean wine that we speak of above) carried itself through the next course. Heirloom tomatoes were the focus here. A fresh tomato tart – with a parmesan and black pepper crust.A great way to use up your garden tomatoes – here is the recipe… It was a true representation of what late summer represents. So clean, pure, and fresh!

2005-frontWe moved onto the 2006 Peter Michael Le Moulin Rouge Pinot Noir. Exquisite – definitely young but contains enough structure and finesse to pair with the next course. I must say that I was a tad intimidated to show this wine. But Manish and I enjoyed it when we first sampled it in CA last year. It was showing 100 times better than our last tasting – and it was perfect with the Ravioli Oeuf with Truffles. With the yolks still on the “softer side,” these raviolis, stuffed with a savory ricotta filling and an egg yolk, were so decadent. The filling had a dash of lemon zest which really brought out the nuances of all of the other components. The truffled butter sauce revealed an earthy note to the entire course. It was so savory, and now one of my favorite stuffed pasta dishes of all time.Lambbeychevelles453187767

Our guests brought outstanding wines to pair with the next course. Rack of lamb with Fig Gastrique over a sunchoke puree with baby zucchini. The 1988 Chateau Beychevelle Saint Julien was showing very well. After letting it breathe for a an hour or two, this wine was showing hints of cedar, earth, dark cherry, and tobacco. I wrote down “caramel” but by that point, I had consumed enough glasses to assume that I mis”wrote.” So unless that seems normal to you, just disregard! On the opposite spectrum was the 2001 Dalla Valle Cabernet. This had a more pronounced nose of licorice, dark fruit/berry, and coffee. The fruit was there but in an elegant style. Both wines paired well with the meal – the Bordeaux reflecting the earthy and game-y qualities of the dish while the Napa Cab supported the flavors of the gastrique.

Flora’s dessert was phenomenal. A chocolate tart with a delicate shortbread/almond crust. Topped off with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and home made chocolate sauce. Decadent. While everyone was announcing how they could only possibly have a bite, I went on to practically lick my plate clean (figure of speech people!) The 1992 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port and the 2004 Zinskey Late accompanied this course. The perfect ending to a very satisfying meal!SANY1716

More than the meal itself, I was thrilled to be able to share the table with these food and wine loving friends of ours. Thank you for the lovely evening, and here’s to the next one! Cheers!