Colorful Flair, a Recipe to Share, and Brooklyn Fare

It’s been a few weeks, so I’ll condense all of my recent “tastes” into one post. We enjoyed some healthy fare, some colorful flair, some spicy bites, and some “out of this world” delights. Ok, ok, no more hokey Nita… Been reading a few too many of my daughter’s sing-songy books!

I recently fell in love with the flavors of a very healthy, simple, and colorful salad. Nothing more than some fresh baby spinach leaves and some slivers of thinly sliced red onion made for the base of this plate. I used Cara Cara oranges interchangeably with Blood Oranges. I preferred the color and flavor of the latter. After segmenting the orange into little “supremes,” I juiced a few tablespoons of the remaining pulp into a bowl, and combined it with some whole grain mustard, white wine vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. The resulting vinaigrette was the perfect balance of sweet, tangy, and savory. Atop each plated salad, I placed a warmed round of chevre which was rolled in chopped nuts before going into the oven. I used pecans once, walnuts another time, but the preferred choice was the smoked almond. It not only added the obvious crunchy texture to the dish, but a depth of flavor that complimented the other ingredients. The wine that stood out for me when paired with this dish was the 2008 Maison Andre Quancard Viognier/Muscat Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes. A steal at $12.50/bottle at 56 Degree Wine!

Color played a similar role in another inspired dish. I was challenged by the thought of creating “potato scales” (similar to a dish I experienced at Elements in Princeton) for my incredibly fresh sea bass that the guys over at Metropolitan Seafood had suggested I try. So, I went to the market and purchased some colorful baby fingerlings. I sliced these as thinly as one could without a mandoline (I know, I can’t believe that I don’t own one yet!) and thought that most of them were uniform in shape and size. I then created little “galettes” of overlapping potato slices on a silpat, and then brushed them with butter. The starchy slices were already sticking together. Here is where many recipes start to crumble. Some say to overlap the “scales” right onto the fish. Others say to cook the potato crisp first and then place on top of the cooked fish. I par-cooked the slices on the silpat, and then transferred them onto the filets (still malleable.) Right before serving, I seared the fish “potato-scale side down” first. What a mess. My scales were all over the place. I definitely did NOT master this technique, but the resulting dish was still tasty and kind of pretty. This was served atop a sunchoke puree and on the side was sauteed rainbow chard (incredibly fresh and straight from the market) and purple fingerling “boats” filled with sunchoke puree and boar bacon. Please comment if you have ever created those gorgeous potato scales, or can suggest a fool-proof technique for me. Perhaps my slices need to be thinner? Oh yes, and we enjoyed the lovely 2006 Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet La Boudriotte to go with this.

This next dish is an incredibly flavorful take on a Vietnamese sandwich (Banh Mi.) Spicy pork meatballs, sriracha spiced mayo, and a sweet and tangy Asian slaw. Yum! Thanks Piyush & Jigna for introducing us to it, and Chirag & Priti for allowing us to re-visit it! 🙂

Another flavorful dish loaded with spice but low in heat, and perfect for this time of year… Chili Braised Short Ribs. I love braised meats. I especially love braised short ribs. My favorite preparation is braised in a dry red wine, a little stock, and just a touch of honey and a splash of port for pronounced flavor. Well, that WAS my favorite preparation. Until a couple weeks ago, when I experimented with some bolder flavors. Ancho chilies and a blend of exotic spices were the base for the braising liquid that I used for these short ribs. I used a little stock, and no wine. The resulting dish was bursting with flavor and the sauce was rich and velvety. I’ll be sharing this recipe with you in a few weeks (I am working on a blog-site for just recipes and comments – coming soon!)

So I think I covered healthy, colorful, and spicy. Now for the “out of this world….” Manish and I finally made it over to The Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, thanks to JB and his reservation that he made a couple months ago. I must admit that before dining there, I perused numerous blog-sites that posted pictures and experiences of culinary adventures with Chef Cesar Ramirez and his 12 person seating inside his kitchen of Brooklyn Fare. I thought that I “knew” what to expect. And although I was very excited about being there in person, I didn’t think that the experience would veer too far off of what I was already so impressed by through my web searches. Boy was I WRONG.

The first words that I read when I sat down at the impeccably spotless stainless steel extension of Chef Ramirez’s kitchen were the ones written on the huge window of the open kitchen. “Our kitchen is bigger than yours.” Those words set the stage for the casual ambiance that was the background of our experience throughout the evening. That and the menu – simple words stating the main ingredient of each course… “Scallop; Monkfish; Rouget; Porcelet; etc etc” Casual, yes. But we dined like royalty. Course after course, Chef Ramirez out-did himself, creating masterpieces of flavor, texture, and color while using the freshest ingredients – all organic, much that is available at their market/grocery store just next door.

We hid the camera and put away our cell phones, as this was the request (also written in the menu.) A couple dining companions and I did take notes, just to remember everything that was being served. It was a 6 course tasting menu, with some amuse bouche (or canapes, as Chef Ramirez called them) to start. During the meal, Chef explained that he created these dishes and flavor combinations through research and not through copying or emulating any other chef or recipe that he has encountered. His passion for his work is what drives him. He is an artist, a genius. I felt privileged and honored to be sitting there in front of him, reaping (and consuming) the benefits of his passion.

Forgive the descriptions sans photo… for as I mentioned before, we did not want to offend the Chef. But here is our account of the evening, written with the utmost respect and admiration for Chef Cesar Ramirez. Thank you Chris and Len for filling in the blanks… 🙂

Wines (Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention, it is BYO with no corkage… I know!)
Rodez Cuvee Crayeres Brut Champane
Demeric Catherine de Medici Brut Champagne
2001 Bzikot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres
1999 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
2008 Sinskey Pinot Blanc
1999 Levet Chavaroche Cote Rotie
1986 Raymond Lafond Sauterne

Warm beet soup with Hudson Valley yogurt (perfect starter – the yogurt was so creamy)
Fresh Sardine tucked into a potato chip (very creative)
Crab with shredded phyllo and dilled yogurt
Bluefin toro with mustard and crispy leeks
Kumomoto oyster with grapefruit, creme fraiche, and oyster juice gelee (one of my favorites)
New Zealand langoustine with a unique herb in a saffron sauce (would have definitely ordered this in a restaurant – always say yes to langoustines!)
Hamachi, celery root, trout roe, lemon puree
Japanese baby shrimp, jalapeno, caviar (not spicy at all!)
King crab, vanilla oil, pineapple, caviar (YUM – another favorite)
Duck “fries” with smoked paprika (Robin and Sapana, if you are reading this, THIS is the most exotic thing I’ve ever hadlol – I can explain later)
Fried “smoked” foie gras (perfect little spheres of some sort of cornmeal? breading around a molten center of foie gras)
Bacalao (sp?) Mousse with shaved black truffle (Chef said that the amount of black truffle that was shaved on top of this canape was worth more than the dinner itself – wow. of course, another favorite)

Seared Scallop with a squash puree, pork belly, pea shoots, black trumpet mushroom, white truffle foam (I would be happy with every ingredient in this dish served on its own… but the combo – absolutely fabulous!)
Monkfish and Foie Gras wrapped in wilted cabbage, parsely root puree and chanterelle cream (so decadent!)
Rouget, salsify, razor clams, snails, Iranian saffron sauce
Porcelet with mustard sauce and kumquats (so tender and so delicious!)
Banana Parfait with milk chocolate foam, chocolate cake, coconut, rum
Creme Caramel with passion fruit puree

Words and pictures are beautiful, but the experience is ethereal.

One Reply to “Colorful Flair, a Recipe to Share, and Brooklyn Fare”

  1. We’ve been lucky enough to eat at Cesar’s table twice and have one more reservation in the books. I’m glad the era of food porn at Brooklyn Fare is over: I’ve photographed both of my meals, but it’s really time to just enjoy the food. And the cell phone “ban” is more than overdue.
    It’s nice to see how the menu evolves according to what’s in the market. There have been both differences and similarities between our two meals, but your more recent meal was a fresh view of what Cesar can create. I appreciate your listing of wines. Looks as if you are a big Pinot fan and you made some lovely choices. We really mix it up on our wine choices when eating at Brooklyn Fare, but always have a champagne to start, a Sauvignon Blanc early, a Pinot and a Syrah mid-meal, a Chardonnay near the end and a sweet wine to finish. This next time, I’m going to bring a fabulous sake given to me by a Japanese acquaintance.

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