It’s been a few weeks, so I’ll condense all of my recent “tastes” into one post. We enjoyed some healthy fare, some colorful flair, some spicy bites, and some “out of this world” delights. Ok, ok, no more hokey Nita… Been reading a few too many of my daughter’s sing-songy books!
I recently fell in love with the flavors of a very healthy, simple, and colorful salad. Nothing more than some fresh baby spinach leaves and some slivers of thinly sliced red onion made for the base of this plate. I used Cara Cara oranges interchangeably with Blood Oranges. I preferred the color and flavor of the latter. After segmenting the orange into little “supremes,” I juiced a few tablespoons of the remaining pulp into a bowl, and combined it with some whole grain mustard, white wine vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. The resulting vinaigrette was the perfect balance of sweet, tangy, and savory. Atop each plated salad, I placed a warmed round of chevre which was rolled in chopped nuts before going into the oven. I used pecans once, walnuts another time, but the preferred choice was the smoked almond. It not only added the obvious crunchy texture to the dish, but a depth of flavor that complimented the other ingredients. The wine that stood out for me when paired with this dish was the 2008 Maison Andre Quancard Viognier/Muscat Vin de Pays Cotes Catalanes. A steal at $12.50/bottle at 56 Degree Wine!
Color played a similar role in another inspired dish. I was challenged by the thought of creating “potato scales” (similar to a dish I experienced at Elements in Princeton) for my incredibly fresh sea bass that the guys over at Metropolitan Seafood had suggested I try. So, I went to the market and purchased some colorful baby fingerlings. I sliced these as thinly as one could without a mandoline (I know, I can’t believe that I don’t own one yet!) and thought that most of them were uniform in shape and size. I then created little “galettes” of overlapping potato slices on a silpat, and then brushed them with butter. The starchy slices were already sticking together. Here is where many recipes start to crumble. Some say to overlap the “scales” right onto the fish. Others say to cook the potato crisp first and then place on top of the cooked fish. I par-cooked the slices on the silpat, and then transferred them onto the filets (still malleable.) Right before serving, I seared the fish “potato-scale side down” first. What a mess. My scales were all over the place. I definitely did NOT master this technique, but the resulting dish was still tasty and kind of pretty. This was served atop a sunchoke puree and on the side was sauteed rainbow chard (incredibly fresh and straight from the market) and purple fingerling “boats” filled with sunchoke puree and boar bacon. Please comment if you have ever created those gorgeous potato scales, or can suggest a fool-proof technique for me. Perhaps my slices need to be thinner? Oh yes, and we enjoyed the lovely 2006 Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet La Boudriotte to go with this.
This next dish is an incredibly flavorful take on a Vietnamese sandwich (Banh Mi.) Spicy pork meatballs, sriracha spiced mayo, and a sweet and tangy Asian slaw. Yum! Thanks Piyush & Jigna for introducing us to it, and Chirag & Priti for allowing us to re-visit it! 🙂
Another flavorful dish loaded with spice but low in heat, and perfect for this time of year… Chili Braised Short Ribs. I love braised meats. I especially love braised short ribs. My favorite preparation is braised in a dry red wine, a little stock, and just a touch of honey and a splash of port for pronounced flavor. Well, that WAS my favorite preparation. Until a couple weeks ago, when I experimented with some bolder flavors. Ancho chilies and a blend of exotic spices were the base for the braising liquid that I used for these short ribs. I used a little stock, and no wine. The resulting dish was bursting with flavor and the sauce was rich and velvety. I’ll be sharing this recipe with you in a few weeks (I am working on a blog-site for just recipes and comments – coming soon!)
So I think I covered healthy, colorful, and spicy. Now for the “out of this world….” Manish and I finally made it over to The Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, thanks to JB and his reservation that he made a couple months ago. I must admit that before dining there, I perused numerous blog-sites that posted pictures and experiences of culinary adventures with Chef Cesar Ramirez and his 12 person seating inside his kitchen of Brooklyn Fare. I thought that I “knew” what to expect. And although I was very excited about being there in person, I didn’t think that the experience would veer too far off of what I was already so impressed by through my web searches. Boy was I WRONG.
The first words that I read when I sat down at the impeccably spotless stainless steel extension of Chef Ramirez’s kitchen were the ones written on the huge window of the open kitchen. “Our kitchen is bigger than yours.” Those words set the stage for the casual ambiance that was the background of our experience throughout the evening. That and the menu – simple words stating the main ingredient of each course… “Scallop; Monkfish; Rouget; Porcelet; etc etc” Casual, yes. But we dined like royalty. Course after course, Chef Ramirez out-did himself, creating masterpieces of flavor, texture, and color while using the freshest ingredients – all organic, much that is available at their market/grocery store just next door.
We hid the camera and put away our cell phones, as this was the request (also written in the menu.) A couple dining companions and I did take notes, just to remember everything that was being served. It was a 6 course tasting menu, with some amuse bouche (or canapes, as Chef Ramirez called them) to start. During the meal, Chef explained that he created these dishes and flavor combinations through research and not through copying or emulating any other chef or recipe that he has encountered. His passion for his work is what drives him. He is an artist, a genius. I felt privileged and honored to be sitting there in front of him, reaping (and consuming) the benefits of his passion.
Forgive the descriptions sans photo… for as I mentioned before, we did not want to offend the Chef. But here is our account of the evening, written with the utmost respect and admiration for Chef Cesar Ramirez. Thank you Chris and Len for filling in the blanks… 🙂
Wines (Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention, it is BYO with no corkage… I know!)
Rodez Cuvee Crayeres Brut Champane
Demeric Catherine de Medici Brut Champagne
2001 Bzikot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres
1999 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
2008 Sinskey Pinot Blanc
1999 Levet Chavaroche Cote Rotie
1986 Raymond Lafond Sauterne
Canapes
Warm beet soup with Hudson Valley yogurt (perfect starter – the yogurt was so creamy)
Fresh Sardine tucked into a potato chip (very creative)
Crab with shredded phyllo and dilled yogurt
Bluefin toro with mustard and crispy leeks
Kumomoto oyster with grapefruit, creme fraiche, and oyster juice gelee (one of my favorites)
New Zealand langoustine with a unique herb in a saffron sauce (would have definitely ordered this in a restaurant – always say yes to langoustines!)
Hamachi, celery root, trout roe, lemon puree
Japanese baby shrimp, jalapeno, caviar (not spicy at all!)
King crab, vanilla oil, pineapple, caviar (YUM – another favorite)
Duck “fries” with smoked paprika (Robin and Sapana, if you are reading this, THIS is the most exotic thing I’ve ever had – lol – I can explain later)
Fried “smoked” foie gras (perfect little spheres of some sort of cornmeal? breading around a molten center of foie gras)
Bacalao (sp?) Mousse with shaved black truffle (Chef said that the amount of black truffle that was shaved on top of this canape was worth more than the dinner itself – wow. of course, another favorite)
Courses
Seared Scallop with a squash puree, pork belly, pea shoots, black trumpet mushroom, white truffle foam (I would be happy with every ingredient in this dish served on its own… but the combo – absolutely fabulous!)
Monkfish and Foie Gras wrapped in wilted cabbage, parsely root puree and chanterelle cream (so decadent!)
Rouget, salsify, razor clams, snails, Iranian saffron sauce
Porcelet with mustard sauce and kumquats (so tender and so delicious!)
Banana Parfait with milk chocolate foam, chocolate cake, coconut, rum
Creme Caramel with passion fruit puree
Words and pictures are beautiful, but the experience is ethereal.
Nantucket Bay Scallops (Sashimi style) with just a drizzle of lime and some snipped chives. This paired magnificently well with the 2007 Gilbert Picq Chablis. The incredibly fresh, sweet scallops offset the zippy acidity and mineral tones of the Chablis. We also had the delicious Pacific Peale Passage oysters along side – creamy and rich with still the briny flavor that you expect with a raw oyster. The brown sauce in the picture is just a little ponzu/soy dipping sauce – but we didn’t need it! (Thanks to Nick at 
The “Soft Boiled then Breaded then Fried” (Blue Hill style) Egg atop truffled barley risotto with the 2000 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja. The earthy tones of the barley and the wine matched 
perfectly. Here are the before and after pictures of the dish… Once you cut into the egg, the soft yolk blends into the base and creates a velvety sauce-like texture to the risotto.
Another egg favorite… Soft egg Raviolis with Truffle Cream. These little pockets of flavor exploded with savory goodness. We first mixed together fresh ricotta with some Parmiggianno Reggianno, some fresh lemon peel, and a light sprinking of sea salt. Placed that in the middle of a fresh pasta round, and then topped the dollop of ricotta mixture with an egg yolk. Top that with another pasta round (carefully,) seal the edges, and voila. Soft egg ravioli! After a very brief simmer in a shallow pan of water, the raviolis were dressed with the truffle cream. This paired with the 
This menu inspired me to create something similar – Indian spiced Lamb Chops with Carrot-Ginger Puree and Spinach simmered in Yogurt and spices.
Speaking of Christmas – my girls gave me my very first Macaron cookbook. As many of you know, I’ve blamed bad recipes, my oven, and lack of time to my inability to create those little Parisian masterpieces. I’ve attempted over a dozen times, and a few of those attempts were successes (perfect macaron “feet” and all!) Now I have no excuse! I will most definitely blog my efforts later this month, as Maya has already asked me to bake her a “Macaron cake” for her 11th birthday. It’s a challenge… so I’ll try it!
I can’t forget the adorable and expertly inventive dessert – Bacon and Eggs. Sous Chef Joe Sparatta removes the top of an organic egg, removing its contents and filling it with brioche french toast. Then he tops that layer with a creamy egg and bacon custard, and a creamy maple foan tops off the egg. On the side of the egg is a strip of bacon and a slice of french toast. It’s even better than it looks in the picture!
Tuna Carpaccio with Sesame Soy Vinaigrette ~ Wine 2007 Summerer Gruner Veltliner
Carrot and Fennel Soup with Seared Scallop ~ Wine 2007 Francois Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir
Breaded, Soft boiled Egg Atop Truffled Lentils ~ Wine 2004 Damilano Barbera d’Alba
Honey and Vinegar Braised Short Ribs with Sunchoke and Celeriac Puree (And Brussel Sprout “Chips”) ~ Wine 2007 Bodegas Mas Alta Els Pics Priorat
t perfect weather… so Manish and I decided to venture to the Green Market at Union Square. Joining us were our daughters, our nephews, and Jigna and Piyush… it was a family affair! We picnicked afterwards – enjoying fresh breads, cheeses, jams, berries, spicy radishes with fresh churned butter, and cold cuts. My most unusual purchase that day was the rainbow assortment of carrots… white, yellow, orange, and purple. Each hue lent itself a unique flavor.
Monday was a lazy day – but we decided to head over to the outlets near the shore (exit 100-ish on the parkway.) By 5pm, the kids were cranky, and Manish and I were about to keel over from hunger pangs. We ventured back to the mysterious Thai restaurant that we visited last year after a family day at the shore. All I remember from last year’s experience was how hungry we were, and how delicious the food tasted. Testing out that theory…. we decided to re-visit. We were seated immediately. I remembered how much I loved the tofu with red curry – so I ordered that again. Seems silly, to order tofu when you are not vegetarian, but I remembered loving it. Delicate yet flavorful, it was the most delicious Thai dish that I had ever tasted. And I have had MANY red curries in my day. And many of you know that I have TRIED to find a more local Thai place that makes an equal or better dish… but have been unsuccessful. Again – it was SUBLIME. Never, will anyone’s tofu with red curry compare to this one. (Oh and Manish and the girls were thrilled with the food as well…)
We started off the evening with the incredible 2005 Gilbert Picq Chablis. A magnum at that! It showcased the perfect balance of fruit, minerality, acidity, and “stony-ness” that you look for in a Chablis. If you are not familiar with the terroir (or the land and geographical surroundings) of where the Chablis region’s grapes are grown, let me enlighten you! The soils in that region are very special. The basin of limestone marl that runs all the way down through the Champagne region, into the Loire, Chablis, and other parts of B
urgundy is known as the Kimmerdgian Trail. All of the soil from these regions contain that limestone clay which is heavy with nutrients of the sea shells and fossils from many, many years ago. The grapes pick up those slate-like tones and the resulting wine is perfectly balanced with a stony minerality and vibrant fruit. Lovely!
With the Picq Chablis, we enjoyed an array of hors d’oeuvres. Asparagus and thin bread sticks wrapped in “truffled” prosciutto di parma; Summer garden bruschetta; Assorted Olives; and something that I never served but intended to… Summer Fruit Gazpacho. More on that later!
We moved onto the 2006 Peter Michael Le Moulin Rouge Pinot Noir. Exquisite – definitely young but contains enough structure and finesse to pair with the next course. I must say that I was a tad intimidated to show this wine. But Manish and I enjoyed it when we first sampled it in CA last year. It was showing 100 times better than our last tasting – and it was perfect with the Ravioli Oeuf with Truffles. With the yolks still on the “softer side,” these raviolis, stuffed with a savory ricotta filling and an egg yolk, were so decadent. The filling had a dash of lemon zest which really brought out the nuances of all of the other components. The truffled butter sauce revealed an earthy note to the entire course. It was so savory, and now one of my favorite stuffed pasta dishes of all time.
2000 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Rioja Reserva – (Here’s what 56 Degree Wine has as the description) Like the great producers in Burgundy, Robert Ampeau and Camille Giroud, Lopez de Heredia holds their wines back and only releases them when they are deemed “ready to drink”. The 2000 Bosconia is pure Rioja, conjuring thoughts of a great Pomerol. Supple but still primary, there is a bevy of dried cherry, leather, licorice and spice. Long finishing and in no danger of fading any time soon, enjoy this classic wine anytime over the next ten years.
I have savored the Rioja above on its own, but it shined when paired next to Paella Valenciana!
I love this wine with seared scallops over a microgreen salad with fennel and citrus tarragon dressing. This is equally lovely with Thai take out!
2006 Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault Les Perrieres 1er Cru – (As per 56 Degree Wine) The Perrieres ramps up the beauty until it is almost unbearable. Owning 1.5 hectares in what is recognized as the best 1er cru site in Meursault, the 2006 version is full of amazing fragrance of spiced pears and fresh baked bread. Superb cut and balance form the basis for the tangerine, orange peel, crystalline citrus and stupendous length. This wine has excellent aging potential and is best enjoyed now through 2018.
